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In the pantheon of great Swiss watchmaking, Movado’s mid-century creations stand as a powerful testament to a time when the brand was a true manufacture, building some of the most innovative and stylish watches on the market. This Movado Tempo-Matic “Sub-Sea” is a quintessential example of that forgotten golden age. It’s a watch that perfectly marries the divine elegance of a gold dress watch with the robust engineering of a water-resistant tool watch. For us, the highlight is the charismatic “roulette” date wheel, a subtle flourish that gives this stunning timepiece an undeniable personality and a direct link to the optimistic spirit of its era.
The 1960s was a period of intense creativity for Movado. The “Tempo-Matic” name signified their line of advanced automatic movements, while the “Sub-Sea” designation, as seen on the steel screw-down case back, was Movado’s mark of a durable, water-resistant case construction—their answer to the Omega Seamasters of the day. It’s wild to think that this svelte, elegant design was built with such a focus on resilience. Powering this watch is a high-quality automatic caliber, likely developed in partnership with Zenith, featuring the delightful complication of a date wheel with alternating red and black numerals. This “roulette” feature was a popular and playful design choice in the 50s and 60s, and finding an example in such fine condition is a true treat for collectors.
This particular example is, in a word, stunning. The gold-plated case exudes a warm, luxurious glow that is perfectly complemented by the champagne sunburst dial. The dial itself is a masterpiece of dynamic texture, radiating from the center and playing with the light in a way that is simply mesmerizing. The applied gold indices are faceted and feature sharp black onyx inlays, providing a crisp legibility and a touch of Art Deco sophistication that contrasts beautifully with the watch’s robust underpinnings. The original dauphine handset is in fantastic shape, and the red date number pops in its beveled window, providing a flash of color and character. Finishing off the package is a handsome, period-correct signed Movado buckle, a detail that speaks to the watch’s well-preserved history.
